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Indy Vapor Shop

ERA / Hornet Atomizer

ERA / Hornet Atomizer
ERA / Hornet Atomizer
ERA / Hornet Atomizer

Item #:era-hornet

This unit is for knowledgeable, veteran users only. Buyers understand and agree to the terms listed.

The ERA and Hornet have been discontinued from Budz. Get one of these excellent rebuildables now before they are gone!

Managed to locate a few of the SS BF Hornets. Should be available by May 15th.

Hornet top feed torch, Bottom feed stainless, Top feed stainless and Bottom feed torch.

The ERA is a top drip (TF) or bottom fed (BF) rebuildable atomizer and is proudly made in the Philippines by BudzWorkz.

Aside from the O-ring and the postive terminal insulator, it is made of Stainless Steel for safe vaping. No brass or plated metal is used.

Included in the package are: - 1 fully assembled ERA or HORNET - 1 allen wrench - 2 feet long Kanthal wire - 2 feet long Silica wick.

Units are without warranty, refund, or exchange.

No technical assistance of any kind can be provided by Indy Vapor Shop. Numerous video tutorials exist via the Electronic Cigarette Forum and at

From BudzWorkz:

Both v1.5 of the ERA and Hornet have a shorter connector to fit the Reo mods, and the Hornet has a topcap that will fit the Reo Mini.

ERA Atomizer

The HORNET is taller than the ERA. Height of the ERA is 21mm while the HORNET is 24mm.

ERA Atomizer

The HORNET on the left has a smaller diameter compared to the ERA. The ERA's diameter is 15mm while the HORNET is 13mm.

The Hornet Top Drip (TF) is a great fit with eGo style batteries.

ERA Atomizer

The interior of the HORNET (Left) is pretty much the same as the ERA (Right). Same procedure in building the wire and wick.

For more information on these units, please Google:

ERA Easily Rebuildable Atomizer and/or Hornet Easily Rebuildable Atomizer or check out the the following:



Electronic Cigarette Forum

Important Notice


Sub Ohm vaping is inherently dangerous and injury can occur if certain safety guidelines are not always followed. You must be also ensure that your batteries can handle sub ohm atomizers and coils. If you're using a regulated mod, make sure it can handle the amps.

Sub-Ohm coils are for experts, not average or beginner vapers with no multimeter or knowledge of how to use a meter, or when a meter must be used, or how electronic devices work. If the coils are not built or tested correctly this can irreparably damage your devices i.e. Mods, Batteries Tanks etc. and may also cause personal injury. These materials cannot safely be used by the inexperienced or those without basic knowledge of electronics, ohm's law, and amps!

Sub-Ohm coils will only work on a mechanical mod or a regulated mod capable of firing sub-ohm atomizers and coils.

This is because:
A coil MUST be tested carefully with a calibrated meter before it is used.
If it is not tested it may damage the device it is used on.
Faulty wicks/coils WILL blow electronic devices.
New coil/wick units must be tested and then used first on a strong basic electrical APV such as a Silver Bullet, that will not be destroyed by a short circuit.
No new coil/wick assembly should be used on an electronic device until known to be safe.
These items destroy electronic devices if faulty.
These items have inherent risks and may go faulty at any time even if they were originally in good working order. The owner bears the cost of equipment damaged as a result.

Make sure that your battery is either removed from your mod, or your mod is adequately locked when you are building your coils.


"Mods" are by definition a modification to a design. There is a degree of risk inherent with any device that uses lithium type batteries. Some of the dangers are short-circuiting, reverse battery issues, and exceeding voltage limitations. Understanding how to handle and care for Lithium type batteries is very important and should always be practiced. Lithium type batteries are very sensitive to charging characteristics and may explode or flame if mishandled.

This is an advanced user device which is recommended for use by experienced vapers only. It requires you to have a strong technical knowledge of mods in order to use this device properly, and safely.

Indy Vapor Shop will not be held responsible or liable for any injury, damage, or defect, permanent or temporary that may be caused by the use of any battery. Indy Vapor Shop is not responsible for any device malfunctioning due to use by an inexperienced vaper who does not have the knowledge and understanding of how to use, and properly rebuild advanced e-cigarette devices. Please have a basic understanding of the batteries you are using and how to care for them properly.

Read the information found at:

Battery University before purchasing.

It is important to carry batteries properly, recharge properly, and dispose properly.

Since we have no control over how a buyer uses the product; no guarantee, warranty, or return privilege will apply. The manufacturer may offer a limited warranty. Buyer shall be responsible for returning the product to the manufacturer. We regret having to strictly enforce this policy. The use of DIY liquid, improper chargers, modified atomizers, and general abuse of the product has made it necessary.

Please do not order if you do not understand and accept these terms.

Note:  This information is courtesy of Brew on ECF.  It is provided as information only.  Indy Vapor Shop cannot assist with any product support on this item.

To all the bottom-fed, ERA-equipped Indy Vapor Shop folks,
I wanted to pass along a very simple to recreate coil and wick design that should minimize the use of silica wick while providing a very effective wicking setup. I'm using a Variable-Voltage REO Grand so I'm going with at least a 6/5 wrapped coil. If you're using a 3.7V device then a 4/3 coil might make more sence from a resistance standpoint with the OEM 32AWG wire. Also 6/5 means that there are 6 wraps to the coil when viewed from the top but only 5 wraps when viewed from the bottom. I am using 32AWG Kanthal A-1 wire and 3mm braided silica wick. A doubled up piece of the OEM 2mm silica wick may work just as well but I had none to try. I'm quite certain that Uncle Mike will have this 3mm wick available in short-order. For the 3.7V folks, 28AWG or 30AWG being less resistive may make doing more wraps hit a 1.5Ù-1.8Ù target much easier. The current hypothesis is that more wraps equate to more flavor and thicker vapor. The 32AWG makes my 6/5 hit about 2.0Ù that I run at about 4.25V-4.5V. 
I use a butane lighter to burn the Kanthal wire prior to wrapping the coil that will turn the wire orange and in doing so burns off any manufacturing contaminants. After wrapping the silica loop with the wire, I use a small chef's butane torch like those used to brown creme brulee to lightly heat/oxidize the entire assembly. These chef torches are much hotter than a Bic lighter so don't overdo it or you'll scorch the wick or melt the wire.

So here's the build:

I wrap a very simply 6/5 coil making sure to wrap in such a manner as to keep the lead at the closed-end of the fold on the bottom while keeping the lead at the open-end of the coil on top. I reference my top and bottom as I'm facing the coil and the wick-n-coil assembly is between me and the connection posts. This will force the installed coil down onto the under passing wick and keeps it properly aligned with the cap's air hole. I do not insert a pin, allen wrench or other similar spacer to provide a lot of wiggle room. However, I don't CRANK DOWN on my wraps either. Tight but not too tight; don’t cut into the strand and you'll be fine. You'll see better in the 2nd & 3rd images.

ERA Hornet Atomizer

In this image, imagine sliding the single strand of 3mm silica running beneath the wick-n-coil assembly between the negative & positive poles of the ERA. You'll need to leave enough spare strands in the back to be able to loop the wick-n-coil assembly around the center post so that you can insert the coil leads into the lead connection holes. You should then tighten down the screws (not too tight or you'll snip the leads) once you have the coil pulled in snuggly but be certain to leave some gap between the posts and the coil itself. Do not remove the excess leads yet and be certain to keep them separate or you could create a short in the next step. You should now give the coil a quick dry-burn to be certain every single wrap of your coil lights up a bright orange. If everything is good you can give the allen screws one final 1/4 turn to firmly snug and then wiggle the leads until they break off. If you are not seeing every single wrap of the coil glow then loosen the screws and back the coil off of the posts a very small amount (~1/32"). Then retighten separating the excess leads again and verify every wrap glows with another dry-burn. Once you have a successful dry-burn proof, you can follow the previous instructions.

ERA Hornet Atomizer

With the coil firmly attached, I pull on the loose strand running under the wick-n-coil assembly until the loop is snug around the base of the center post. Once that's accomplished I trim off the strand running under the wick-n-coil assembly even with the bottom catch basin of the ERA. This design actually uses very little wick but since it covers both the front and rear juice feed holes, it wicks juice to the coil like a much larger design. Less wick flavor is a good thing.

ERA Hornet Atomizer

I had also been informed that one of the ERA users is using very small glass beads installed on each of the coil leads between the coil and the posts to keep from ever shorting out any of the wraps. I had a huge problem with this after having initial success with my first wick-n-coil assembly. After building 9 successive assemblies producing little to no flavor I finally discovered the issue of shorting the last couple of wraps on each end of my coil. Once I backed out the coil assembly a smidge, the flavor was present by the 5th pull.

The stainless build material of the ERA atomizer and this particular wick design will be keeping me a loyal ERA user for quite some time. I can hardly wait to try this on their Hornet version. Hope this helps. Scott

p.s. - Here's a very poor drawing of the design assuming the other images still left you confused. Oh and in case you’re wondering, I changed out my ERA allen-head set screws with cheese head phillips screws available at McMaster Carr. The part numbers were posted in the ERA thread in the REOSMODS forum here on the ECF. I have multiple sets myself cause they are darned easy to drop/lose. 

ERA Hornet Atomizer

Manufacturer Model Precise+ Information:

We listened to you very closely thus we adjusted both the ERA and the Hornet to perfectly fit the Reo Mods by shortening the 510 connector and we did it just right. But here's our little observation. Both the ERA and the Hornet won't fire up on a few mods that we have because their positive terminal is a little too deep (like my Precise+). Here's the solution. If your mod has an adjustable positive terminal, please adjust it to connect with the ERA/Hornet's positive terminal. If your mod has no adjustable positive terminal, adjust the positive terminal of the ERA/Hornet by turning the positive terminal counter clockwise using a flat screw driver. Yes, the positive terminal of the ERA and the Hornet has a thread similar to a screw and was made to be adjustable for this situation.